New York Fashion Week

- February 15th, 2010.
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February 15

The party is over and now the bills have to paid. To his credit Zac Posen, the once flamboyant whiz-kid and showman, is fighting back against the problems that he came up against because of the downturn in the economy. In the past his shows were all party and fun going late into the evening. This morning, for the second season in a row, he showed at nine o’clock at the Altman Building. Instead of cheeky pizzazz this time out he was about construction, clever but wearable and sophisticated but affordable. It was clear that the business of fashion was mission number one.

All for one and one for Carolina Herrera. The baroque music, the wide brim hats, wrap around stoles, long jackets instantly brought to mind the Three Musketeers. The confident alluring women who inspire Herrera share much in common with the swashbuckling comrades in arms. Mixed in with her heavy woollen outfits were her signatures dresses always perfectly constructed from exquisite choices of fabrics. Her shinny eveningwear gowns were breathtaking.

Tracy Reese created one of the week’s more sensual and free spirited shows. The Bryant Park veteran’s tight fitting casual looks featured some interesting textile fusions using leather and fur.

Red carpet designer Monique Lhuillier started off with a group of sparkling short dresses with shoulder detail and metallic embellishments based on the military look. But instead of being masculine it was ultra feminine. Her models looked like they were off to a 19th century Venetian Ball. Her wonderful evening gown section was an indication that the recession is on the way out.

The Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation supports new and upcoming artists. The large scale event showcased looks from each of the seven winners’ collections. Footage from this year’s program will also be featured in a special half-hour documentary.

As always the Marc Jacobs show was a complete surprise. Like last season it began with all the models on a stage at the end of the runway. The real difference from the very first looks was the simplicity of his designs. There was no complex layering, jarring contrasts and bold experimentation. If anything the mood was sentimental as the entire show played out to Marianne Faithfull’s strained but touching version of 'Somewhere over the Rainbow'. The fashion matched the 1939 film with simple dresses that Dorothy would have worn in the Wizard of Oz to Hollywood silver screen glam. He stuck 100 percent with the era. In contrast to almost every other designer this season there was not a towering high heel in sight. The sensible footwear was one step removed from nursing shoes in look, practicality and even beige color. No model was ever in eminent peril of falling on the runway. To emphasis Jacobs' new down to earth business approach the entire room was covered in corrugated box cardboard. Even the seating. At the end of the show the designer took his bow wearing a smart suit instead of his kilt.